Hunting Roos and Making Roux with Sam May

Sam May. Photo by National Indigenous Culinary Institute.

Words by Rushani Epa

All is quiet except for the calm breeze carrying through the gum trees. The sound of a gunshot pierces the air, followed by cheers of joy. A kangaroo lays still on the arid ground, Sam May and his father have scored their dinner. 

They take their bounty and sit by a fire. First, they singe off its fur, then they gut it, and place the tail wrapped in aluminium foil over the hot coals. The tail, the fattiest part of the kangaroo’s body, is rich, succulent and juicy, and makes for the perfect end to a day of hunting.

Pepperberry Kangaroo Tail by Sam May.

He didn’t know it then, but it was just a matter of years before May would make the big move from the sleepy town of Moora to Perth. Perth promised him a high school education and the chance to live with his mum, but there were only so many opportunities in tow for a young man like May. 

“Growing up in Perth, there was the opportunity to become a sheep shearer, but I wanted to be a mechanic,” he says, and this is what spurred him on to move to Melbourne in 2016 with nothing but two bags to his name. “I started off instead as a storeperson, then became a stevedore before trying my hand at cooking and commencing my studies at William Angliss Institute.” 

It was here that he came into contact with the National Indigenous Culinary Institute, and went onto complete his apprenticeship with Neapoli’s Wine Bar and The European Group, Kirk’s Wine Bar and French Saloon, working under the keen eye of Ian Curley and Todd Moses. 

Identity is important as Indigenous people today represent our family history and generational trauma.

Following his apprenticeship, May worked at Charcoal Lane, but left there not long after. With a young family now in the picture, May was struggling to make time for his wife and 10 month old daughter whilst working full-time. So he turned to cafe work, but that also failed to provide him with any respite. Now, he’s nurturing his passion for native ingredients, and exploring horticulture, all the while connecting with his heritage and family. 

May’s grandparents on his mother’s side are from the Ballardong Clans of the Noongar people, the towns of Tammin, Kellerberrin and Quairading, WA. His grandfather on his father’s side was Gija, born in Turkey Creek Warmun, the site of the Mistake Creek Massacre, a brutal and senseless massacre which claimed the lives of several Gija people. May’s grandmother was Yamatji, born in Bamboo Creek Marble Bar. 

Both his grandparents were born Stolen and taken to Moore River Settlement, a place responsible for the deaths of many Aboriginal children - a place described by some as ‘hell on Earth’. 

“Identity is important as Indigenous people today represent our family history and generational trauma. It’s about being resilient against adversity,” he says. The lack of education on the history of our Indigenous people, combined with a lack of diversity across all industries in Australia, make for the perfect racist storm.

“I’m hyperaware of my actions as they not only represent me but other Aboriginal people as well. I’m hyperaware because of the stereotypes out there that cast judgment on me by others.” May discusses going to the park on a sunny afternoon with friends, and feeling uneasy bringing out a bottle of wine. “I worry that the police could turn up, or that I could be reported, and be questioned about having the bottle.” A thought which rarely crosses the minds of many non Indigenous people.

Another concept which irks May is that of non Indigenous people profiting off Indigenous ingredients, with a recent survey by Bushfood Sensations finding that only 1 per cent of the native food industry's produce and dollar value is generated by Indigenous people. 

Photo: Chargrilled Pepperberry Kangaroo Tail with Smoked Sweet Potato and Bush Tomato Purée by Sam May.

May grows native ingredients like murnong and saltbush in his own backyard, and would regularly cook damper on the fire with his father. “Damper was made using seeds like wattleseed, and would be crushed into a dough, but then the British brought over flour which wasn’t good for our health,” he says. Damper, otherwise known as bush bread or seed cake, was ultimately whitewashed with British settlers adding flour to it, and consequently referred to as a type of soda bread.

Nowadays, May continues to honour his heritage and cooks damper at home for his wife. Gone are the days of hunting Western Red Kangaroos with his dad, instead he purchases kangaroo meat from The Chicken Pantry in Queen Victoria Market. You can also find him tearing paperbark from the surrounding trees in his new hometown of Reservoir, Victoria to smoke fish with.

May also has advice for budding Indigenous chefs. “Don’t expect to be a star straight away, have that goal, but don’t expect it to happen straight away overnight - just pay attention to each day and work on improving little by little. Aim for the stars, expect the moon.” 

Sam May was gracious enough to share his recipe for Paperbark Smoked Duck, which you can find here.