Lengua in Cheek with Ross Magnaye
Ross Magnaye. Photo by Maysie Lecciones.
Words by Rushani Epa
Update (18/04/2022): Ross is now set to open Serai, a modern Filipino restaurant, together with Shane Stafford (co-founder of the since-closed Rice Paper Sister) and Ben Waters. “The menu will be inspired by the different islands of the Philippines but also influences from Malaysia. As we know, the Philippines was invaded by the Spaniards therefore there will be a little bit of that influence as well. We want to really focus on traditional Filipino flavours but then utilise modern techniques and incorporate a lot of amazing Australian produce. The menu will also be centred around a woodfire grill by the Brick Chef. Australian natural wines will feature along with a few European fire wines in the mix. Guests can also expect super fun cocktails and Filo beers,” says Ross. Sign up to get notified of when they open here.
This piece was originally published on July 17, 2020.
Little black and white marbled shavings of truffle fly mid-air, landing gently on the tip of some lucky person’s tongue. Equipped with a grater in one hand, and a Manjimup truffle in the other, Filipino Australian chef, Ross Magnaye, fervently dishes out truffle to his audience with a wide grin spread across his face.
Scenes like these will play out on his Instagram stories, or will entertain those lucky enough to experience this in reality. Other times, Magnaye can be spotted out on the range playing golf. But most times, one can expect to salivate over the variety of food he appears to eat. His upcoming appearance on the winner of Masterchef Australia 2017, Diana Chan’s, show Asia Unplated is no exception.
Ross Magnaye with his grandmother, Carolina.
“She’s [Chan] a mate of mine, and I had a great laugh with the crew,” he says. It comes as no surprise that he had the team in hysterics during filming. His sense of humour can keep a room buzzing with energy for hours on end.
Magnaye, his parents and younger sister left behind their home in the Philippines when he was 15 years old and set off for Australia. Growing up, he recalls big family gatherings filled with laughter and great food. “Family is the most important thing to me,” he says. “Family gatherings, eating and fun always went hand in hand, and took places at different houses, the beach or at restaurants.”
His grandmothers, uncles and aunts would take the reins at these gatherings and produce a range of different meals for him and his extended family. His grandmother also ran a famous restaurant in Cagayan de Oro in the Philippines named Carol’s.
“I didn’t eat there as it was before my time, but my mum would tell me stories about how busy it was and how delicious the food was. It’s given me a lot of hope and inspiration to this day,” he says. “Since I was young I always wanted to be a chef. Growing up around good food was always part of my upbringing and I’m very blessed for that.”
The Philippines was colonised by Spain for 300 years, and taken over by the U.S for 43 years. The nation comprises 7,641 islands, of which approximately 2,000 are inhabited, making it an incredibly diverse and varied melting pot.
“There’s a strong American influence on things like food, culture and things that people love to do. An example would be with food, and a lot of restaurant and fast food chains are American,” Magnaye says. The presence of the U.S is still felt to this day, from the Filipino education system, to dishes like cornsilog - corned beef hash (introduced by Americans) served with garlic fried rice and a fried egg.
The Spanish occupation also left a profound impact on Filipino culture, which led to many popular Filipino dishes drawing upon Spanish influences, like chicken adobo - a delicious braise which involves soy sauce and vinegar, longganisa - rich sausage filled with ground pork and spices, or even paella - the Spanish rice dish with a Filipino twist featuring glutinous rice and coconut milk.
Community or ‘barrio’ in Filipino is very important to me.
When Spain colonised the Philippines, they implemented a new system: The privatisation of land ownership, which replaced the pre-existing Filipino system of communal land ownership, much to the horror of its citizens. “Community or ‘barrio’ in Filipino is very important to me. Community is family and we need our family for love and support,” he says. “Food brings different communities together and is an integral part of living life.”
“For me food is everything. Food is love and is the best communication tool. It breaks down barriers and sets aside differences. It means so much to me because not only is it a form of nourishment but a lot of my best experiences in life are with food,” he says. Magnaye sees food as a tool for peace, and a way to unite different cultures, something which is very representative of his own culture.
Ross Magnaye in the kitchen. Photo by Jade Florence.
He commenced his culinary career while studying commercial cookery at William Angliss Institute in Melbourne, and landed his first role at the now closed Society Restaurant, one of Melbourne’s most prominent Italian eateries at the time. “It was my first glimpse into the culinary world,” Magnaye says. “It was then that I fell in love with cooking, and it was there that I really got to appreciate dessert and pastry whilst working with this guy called Shahaf, who to this day is one of the best cooks I’ve ever worked with.”
He then worked under the mentorship of Darren Purchese at Burch and Purchese for almost a year, before cheffing at various places around Melbourne, looking to expand his knowledge and to help those in the industry. Eventually, he travelled to Brazil and undertook a stage at two-Michelin star award winning restaurant D.O.M, then continued his travels to Thailand where he worked at award-winning restaurant Aziamendi. Upon returning back to Melbourne, he joined the Rice Paper Scissors/Sister team as Head Chef for five years.
I think the most common misconception around Filipino food is that it’s unhealthy, sugary and very boring.
“At the end of the day I learnt so much from these people - not just about beautiful food but about business, running kitchens and how people treat their staff,” he says. “I’ve learned a lot of cooking techniques and methods here in Australia. I was excited to eat the food here [upon moving] because the produce is so different and a lot of people take it for granted. Things like fresh cow’s milk, cheese, etc.”
“Australia is such a great country to live in, and the produce and food is spectacular. I love it because I can use the best meat, seafood and vegetables in the world and mix it with Filipino ingredients and techniques,” he says. Magnaye combines his confidence with his own style of cooking and his Filipino heritage, and owes this to his ongoing culinary success.
“I think the most common misconception around Filipino food is that it’s unhealthy, sugary and very boring. I don't blame people for this misconception to an extent, but there’s a lot of beautiful seafood, vegetables and meat in Filipino cuisine,” he says. “Depending on the region you are in, Filipinos love to use a lot of soy sauce, vinegar and coconut in their cooking. I guess it’s similar to a lot of Southeast Asian cooking but then there’s also a lot of use of tomatoes due to the Spanish influence. Very common spices like black pepper and oregano are also used in grilling and barbecuing meats.”
Follow your gut and don’t listen to people who are trying to bring you down. Fuck ‘em!
He planned to take his flair to Paris in 2020, until COVID-19 hit. “I think isolation has been a blessing for me. I have had more time to reflect on the really significant things in life which we tend to miss everyday when we are so busy. Spending precious time with loved ones has been amazing, and also getting time to do the little things that matter, like going for walks, reading and just simply relaxing. I am supposed to be in Paris now cooking but I think this is a sign from up above to slow things down.”
He would also like to issue advice to First Nations, Black and People of Colour who are trying to make it in the hospitality industry: “Follow your gut and don’t listen to people who are trying to bring you down. Fuck ‘em!”
Magnaye also praises Jordy Navarra from renowned restaurant Toyo Eatery in Manila who is pushing Filipino food on a global scale, and Entree Pinays “who have supported me in every possible way here in Melbourne to push Filipino food.” There’s no doubt that wherever the wind blows him next, exceptional food and company will follow.
Ross Magnaye was kind enough to share his recipe for adosilog (chicken and pork adobo, garlic fried rice and a fried egg) which you can find here.